Zengcuoan (曾厝垵) is the seaside backpacker neighbourhood directly across Huandao Road from the long sand beach on the island's south shore. Once a fishing village, it's now a dense cluster of B&Bs, creative shops, and snack stalls — a block or two of shophouse-style lanes, busiest after dark.
It's simpler than Shapowei: less curated, more backpacker-friendly, with cheaper beds and a higher proportion of xiao chi (小吃) street food. Come for: Xiamen sea-shrimp crackers, milk tea rows, grilled squid skewers, the inevitable stinky-tofu stall, and the short walk across to the beach at sunset.
Practical: busiest 18:30–22:30 nightly. Metro Line 1 to Zengcuoan (5-minute walk) or BRT along Huandao Road. Budget 30–60 CNY for a full snacking circuit. Skip the beach on weekend afternoons (packed); go at 07:00 or after 19:00 instead.